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  • Writer's pictureLushmuddled

Eloquesta Cotto Chardonnay 2017

Updated: Feb 9, 2021

Mudgee, NSW, Australia

RRP$33

This is definitely a wine which needs some background information. After ferment, the wines were left on oak barrels outside, under cover, cooking in the heat for 39 months. The wine evaporated and concentrated over this time (sometimes two litres a week!) and was regularly topped up with fresh Chardonnay juice from barrels left inside the cellar. This is very much inspired by the wines of Madeira and Marsala, the main difference being that this is still a dry table wine, not a fortified.


The colour is immediately eye catching - a brilliant and deep gold, proper amber colour. It is hard not to appreciate it, but it also immediately throws up a signal that this wine is gonna take you for a wild ride. The nose is one of the most concentrated that I have come across. Deeply scented, and there is certainly a fino sherry/Maderia vibe, with green almond, banana custard, orange peel, green mango and spices. There are some more tropical notes coming off it, with a honey sweetness, and it reminds me of a golden Caribbean rum. Every time you you put your nose in the glass something new comes up - I could just smell this wine for hours. The palate is just as concentrated and it has a thick texture, but stays quite clean. Marmalade, bitter oranges, burnt butter, peach nectar, dried twigs and figs. As it warms, vanilla comes through. This evolves in the glass beautifully, but I wouldn't call it elegant. It does offer up a lot though, and holds it own. Be open minded though - this ain't your mamma's Chardonnay.


Rating: ★★★★

Have it with? Your Spanish friend who misses fino sherry.

Classic, weird or funky? Weird, but as long as you're open minded you'll be fine.

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